(From left: Yohji Yamamoto's oversized caging, Undercover's disconcerting "execution hood", Viktor & Rolf's fencing mask)
Robin Givhan wrote a fantastic piece earlier this year pulling sense from some of Fall '06's more provocative Ready-to-Wear collections. Unfortunately, the article was written three days before Junya Watanabe marched out his battle-entrenched, damaged models. If Takahashi's hoods for Undercover evoked some sense of dread, Watanabe's masks were confrontational pieces of wartime horror.
Watanabe's obfuscations are thematically akin to Takahashi's and Yamamoto's, yet are also the most important of the season's conceptual collections-- a move from the personal to the personal-political, a rigorous and well-executed distinction.
Full text of Givhan's article after the jump.