Raf Simons, who stepped in at the helm of (and rescued) Jil Sander just a couple of seasons back, is a straight man. I love straight men. I blame it entirely on my permannoyance with homos in general, especially fashion-y homos (yes, I'm a guilty party); we could also call this internalized homophobia, but I would just argue that The Gays have really tacky taste. Look at this purple monstrosity! I mean, only a misogynist fagatron could come up with this sort of bullshit. OK, granted, this was designed by Donatella Versace, but she's totally the gayest man on Earth.
Point being. Raf Simons is perfectly continuing the work of Jil Sander (person) by designing refined, gorgeous clothes that are tasteful without ever being boring or looking like full body chastity gear. Simons, like Sander, is entirely interested in cut and fabric. The black dresses at the beginning of the post are basic and unassuming, yet are highly inventive in minimal pleat gathering and length. Wisely, the "dang!" element is in the shoes. The flats are great-- surprisingly dressy. A lot of designers did metallic finishes on footwear this year, but it was great to see shoes with actual big, loud metal detailing.
The platform oxfords are also fucking wonderful-- though I still don't know where the suddon (and, I assume, brief) oxford fad came from. Whatevs, these were done right.
But back to Straight Man. I'm convinced these smart, design oriented clothes come from a mindset less interested in "fucking fabulous!" than in "fucking brilliant." I'm totally spacing on who said it, but Jil Sander has been described as clothes that are designed and executed for the extremely fashionable person that is too smart to be won over by any sort of "wow factor," and would rather have clothes that fit like a dream and work in a seasonless way.
The minimalist, sexless Jil Sander aesthetic is just goddamned perfect.
So, hating homos right now. Loving straight men. Though you'll notice that Simons is going to lose out to a couple brilliant gay men on my final list.
Because I'm still loyal to cocksuckers.